Latin American Adventure
April 12, 2023 thru May 15, 2024
To begin The Adventure we flew out of SFO on April 12, 2023, after purging our belongings and putting what remained into storage. We had found some great renters to move into our house for a year and hit the road for Buenos Aires!
We spent the rest of 2023 in the Southern Hemisphere; April through November we were in the “Southern Cone”…
… and December in Peru. Just before NYE we crossed back over the equator to Colombia.
The first three weeks of 2024 were in Colombia; the last week of January and first part of February in Central America. And the final lap, 14 weeks roaming around Mexico until we flew home from Cancun on May 15, 2024.
We took 24 flights, ranging from 45 minutes to 10 hours; took 10 long haul buses together and Abram took probably another 10 on hot springs and beach getaways; I took 2 on my getaway to SMA. Took hundreds of city buses. Took a ferry 4 times. Rented a car 5 times. Abram took a TukTuk once - that was enough - super bumpy road!
Stayed in 13 apartments, for as short as 4 days and as long as 6 weeks, and about 35 hotels, most for 1-3 nights. Visited 6 countries in South America - Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Peru and Uruguay - plus Costa Rica and Panama in Central America, and Mexico.
Here’s a recap of our adventure, with just a few photos. I’m including very little art in this recap - if you’re interested, take a look at the previous blogs for a ton of it: contemporary, ancient, street, fashion, masks, ceramics, gold, fine art, photography and more; also stories, travel details and many more photos! It’s been fun to re-live it all, writing this final blog.
FYI, the videos can be glitchy; try a different browser if they don’t play.
April 13 thru 30, 2023
Argentina: Buenos Aires
Mafalda is a cartoon character created in 1963 by the Argentine artist Quino and is known for her very liberal comments on politics and the state of the world. She was banned during the time of the Generals but she’s back now; the image above is from a park named after her.
We had pre-booked an apartment in the Recoleta neighborhood for two weeks; this was the only reservation we made before leaving home. Since we intended to stay in Buenos Aires for a few months we used these first two weeks to look around and choose a neighborhood to settle into.
Recoleta has the highest concentration of Beaux Arts buildings in the city:
We chose an apartment in a different section of Recoleta but before moving into it we took a ferry across the river to Montevideo to spend a couple of weeks exploring Uruguay.
But first, a few shots from our first two weeks in Buenos Aires:
April 30 thru May 11, 2023
Uruguay: Montevideo, road trip, Colonia
Uruguay is the smallest country in South America, about the size of Washington state. Montevideo, pictured above, is across the Rio de la Plata from Argentina (that’s the river/estuary in the photo, not an ocean - it’s the widest river in the world). Great jazz club in Montevideo, one of the musical highlights of our trip:
A cool little museum featuring a fabulous collection of items from Carnaval https://www.adventuress-travel-magazine.com/carnival-museum-montevideo.html :
We drove around the entire country and saw beaches (off-season since it was fall), strange border towns, nice hitchhikers, a hotel named after a famous tango dancer, hot springs, horses along the road, and of course, many mate drinkers with their gourds and thermoses.
We ended our Uruguayan road trip in the charming small town of Colonia, before boarding a ferry back to BA.
May 11 thru July 14, 2023
Argentina: Buenos Aires, Mendoza, San Antonio de Areco, Mar del Plata
Everyone has a dog in Buenos Aires! There are as many pet supply stores as cafes.
After our Uruguayan adventure we settled into a charming large place in a different section of Recoleta, near the famous cemetery.
My local cafe, très français:
We stayed just over seven weeks in that apartment; during that time we did a short getaway across the country to Mendoza, located in Argentinian wine country at the foot of the Andes, with gorgeous hot springs in a nearby river.
A few weeks later Abram took a bus down to the beach city Mar del Plata and my sister Gail, who visited us mid-July, and I went to a ranch town and toured an estancia.
Here are a few random memories of Buenos Aires:
July14-17, 2023
Iguazu Falls: Argentina & Brazil
On the 14th of July we said hasta la vista to Buenos Aires and flew to see one of the natural wonders of the world - Iguazu Falls. It’s located at the borders of Argentina, Paraguay and Brazil; the two viewing sites are in Argentina and Brazil. Very different experiences! On the Argentina side you are up close and personal, with long walkways that are just a few feet above the tops of the falls. On the Brazil side you’re farther away but get an amazing panoramic view.
July 17 thru August 23, 2023
Brazil: Rio de Janeiro, Petropolis, Buzios, Rio das Ostras
It’s just a quick flight from Iguazu to Rio. There are two big curves that make up the famous beaches Copacabana and Ipanema; plus Leblon beach at the southern end, which was recommended to us by Abram’s cousin who lived there. We first spent a few days south of Rio proper in Barra da Tijuca before we found a great apartment in Leblon and stayed for four more weeks.
(Not my pic):
During our time in southern Brazil we did a quick getaway to gorgeous Buzios, met up with a friend from home who lives up the coast in Rio das Ostras, and visited Petrópolis, a mountain retreat and home of the former palace of emperor Dom Pedro II, and where we chanced upon a lovely wedding.
We had a wonderful time and were happy to be there in off-season when the weather was in the 80’s. The food, the samba, the beaches, the art, the people - fantastic! Here are some images - it’s so hard to choose just a few:
August 23 thru September 7, 2023
Argentina: Buenos Aires & Mendoza
After our stay in Rio we had two weeks before our bus reservation across the Andes so we went back to Buenos Aires and found an apartment where the neighborhoods Palermo, Colegiales, Chacarita and Villa Crespo meet - all fun, lively areas.
Our bus reservation for the crazy switchback road over the Andes from Mendoza to Santiago was on September 5th; only 16 days before the first day of spring. The snow can still be deep that time of year but the pass was clear when we booked our tickets. If you read the Chile blog you will know that the road got snowed out, the short hop flights from Mendoza to Santiago were sold out, so we ended up flying back to Buenos Aires for one night before flying from there to Santiago on the 6th. Oh well, one more chance to have dinner at RodiBar!
And the flight over the Andes:
September 7 - November 17, 2023
Chile: Santiago, Easter Island, Valparaiso, Viña del Mar, Valle del Elqui, Lakes & Volcanoes District, Patagonian fiords and glaciers
One of the main things we wanted to do during this adventure was visit Easter Island, or Rapa Nui; you can only get there by air from Santiago or Papeete (or by ship). We had not booked our flights yet because it’s much less expensive to purchase them in Chile. So… upon arrival at the Santiago airport we went directly to the LAN Chile desk and got tickets for September 10-16. Easter Island is part of Chile, and is considered the most remote spot on earth.
We spent almost 10 weeks in Chile; it was an unexpected highlight of the trip. A total of a week in Santiago, almost a week on Rapa Nui, 3 weeks in Viña Del Mar/Valparaíso, 2 weeks road-tripping, 4 days ferry through Patagonian fiords, almost 2 weeks in Patagonia (part Chile, part Argentina).
How can I possibly choose just a few photos and videos for the highlights? It was all spectacular. The Moai, the hills of Valparaiso, the volcanoes and lakes, hot springs, the incredible fresh air and skies of Patagonia, penguins, glaciers, the Straits of Magellan, Tierra del Fuego. A friend from home and his bakery. A fun Halloween parade we chanced upon. Here are just a very few memories of Chile:
The Navimag ferry to Patagonia:
The Straits of Magellan and Magellanic penguin island:
Tierra del Fuego and King Penguin colony:
Speaking of penguins…
Perito Moreno Glacier, Patagonia, Argentina:
Adios to Patagonia, I hope to return someday!
November 17 thru 25, 2023
Argentina: Buenos Aires (again!)
To fly from Patagonia to Peru, you can go either through Santiago or Buenos Aires; we decided (surprise!) to go back to Buenos Aires for a nice expat Thanksgiving and one more week in one of our favorite cities in South America.
November 25 thru December 30, 2023
Peru: Lima, Churin, Vichayito, Paracas
Lima: the culinary capital of South America! I can never eat ceviche again; it was so incredibly good there all other ceviche will forever pale in comparison. The first pic is from a ceviche-making class:
We booked a large apartment right across from the ocean since Phoebe was coming to spend a week with us.
It was in a lively part of the Miraflores neighborhood, near the “Love Park” and just a short walk along the oceanside cliffs to the more bohemian neighborhood Barranco. Lima is known for its food and, as they say, it did not disappoint! And they distill whiskey using black Andean corn.
Best restaurant in the world 2023 in Lima:
Random food and market pics:
We took a bus trip south to the Paracas National Reserve and saw more penguins, the Playa Roja, and the trippy scenery as desert meets the sea.
Abram took a bus way up the mountains to the small town of Churin, famous for its hot springs.
We spent Christmas up near the Ecuador border at a small beach resort.
Lima: Excellent food, interesting art, gold, the second-worst traffic in the world, ancient cultures, vibrant modern life.
The day before New Year’s Eve Abram and I boarded a plane and crossed the equator as we flew to Medellin, Colombia.
December 30 thru January 21, 2023-2024
Colombia: Medellin, Envigado Bogota, Pereira, Cartagena, Rincon del Mar
We stayed in a nice big old-fashioned hotel in Medellin for a few days - watched NYE fireworks from our balcony - then Abram took off in search of hot springs and I moved to a little apartment in the Medellin suburb of Envigado. Did a great tour of a small mountainside coffee plantation, visited several fantastic museums, and enjoyed the mountain air.
Our next stop was Bogota, where we stayed in a couple of different neighborhoods. The city has a great vibe!
We then flew up to the Caribbean coast, to Cartagena. Gorgeous, historic and as they say, hot AF. Seriously hot. There’s the old walled city with so many interesting and colorful buildings and doors, and the new section and all the beaches:
A few days later we went by bus to Rincon del Mar, a very small beach town that had been recommended by several people. It was marvelous! Way off the beaten path, the kind of place where they use wheelbarrows to bring people’s luggage from the little town square out to the tiny hotels and bungalows on the beach.
After 4 days there we took the bus back to Cartagena for a couple more days, then left South America for Central America.
January 21 thru February 8, 2024
Panama: Panama City
Costa Rica: San Jose, Zancudo, Montezuma, La Fortuna
The Panama Canal was super impressive!
Other than seeing it, we mostly hung out at our hotel pool in Panama City, which had a stellar view of the coolest skyscraper ever.
We only stayed a few days in Panama City; the next stop was Costa Rica, to visit my best friend from high school and her husband, who had rented a house on Playa Zancudo. Sunset from their deck:
Zancudo is also a world-class deep-water fishing destination. We went down to the dock to watch the fishing boats come in, and dined on their catch the same evening … as much as this guy or the birds didn’t get:
We then road-tripped around Costa Rica for about 10 days. So many colors, including the buses! We stayed a few nights in Montezuma, a small town at the base of the Nicoya Peninsula, one of the original five designated Blue Zones. Abram went on a nice snorkeling trip out to Turtle Island and climbed up to a waterfall. I shopped at a local artisans market and enjoyed Pura Vida at a beachfront bar.
For the video below, turn up the volume to hear the howler monkeys.
On February 8 we flew to Mexico City, and spent the following 2-1/2 months in Mexico.
February 8 thru May 15, 2024
Mexico: Mexico City, San Miguel de Allende, Guadalajara, Oaxaca, Merida, Riviera Maya
Five weeks in the gigantic metropolis of CDMX - Mexico City! We scored the most gorgeous apartment of the entire trip:
Here are just a very few images from our six Mexican destinations, in no particular order. For many more photos and videos and stories, take a look at the previous blogs.
Our final Mexican destination was the Mayan Riviera on the Caribbean coast of the Yucatan Peninsula, specifically Playa del Carmen for a family wedding and, a few miles south, “our” beach Aventuras Akumal, a family vacation spot for quite a few years in the late ‘90’s (including New Years Eve Y2K) and the early 2000’s. We were all so happy to be there again - a highlight of the trip for sure!
Whew! Thirteen months and three days. So many memories. The family wedding was a great way to begin our re-entry.
I’ve enjoyed this dive back into the adventure. And now we’re home.
It’s great to travel and it’s great to come home. Until the next adventure!
Amazing Adventure!! Inspiring!!